LA IGUALDAD FALLS

I already told you about our easter trip to San Rafael Pie de la Cuesta, San Marcos. Well one of the eco activities we did was visit the Igualdad Falls. (The Equality Falls). 

From San Rafael you drive to San Pablo, that is a main road, then you have to head towards the community Igualdad. (Equality). It is at the end of the road, about 30 minutes from San Pablo on a road that gets bumpier and narrower as you go (keep on though, its worth it)

The most exciting aspect was to see how organized the community is around this attraction. You know you are there because there is a big billboard and community men are ready to help you park and collect the parking fee. Everyone is super friendly.

You walk through the town, people have food to sell, the way is marked and you are just glad  the government is not involved. It is a protected area but private. 

Nicole eating "chicharrines" more on that on  another post

This is the initial view. You know you are in the heart of Guatemala

We went on Good Friday so all the way to the falls we found people. We were of the few that were going toward the fall most everyone was wrapping up the day and almost all the about 300 people we crossed with on the way told us we were late.

Stop for a pic and a break

Most of the people seemed like they were local people from villages around, nobody with REI outfits or fancy backpacks or camelbacks, just people enjoying a family outing. It is on the side hill of the Sierra Madre, the vegetation is as natural as it gets, the colors, the smells, the sounds and it just fills you up with all good things.

The walk going is first down hill (the only thing I could think of was that I had to clim the hill coming back). After about 15 minutes you start climbing and after about 10 minutes you get to the first falls and the hot spring pools. That is were the paying post is. People form the community are there charging, they take care of security and ornate. The community also gets the chance to sell water, some people also charge to help you carry your pic nic basket, it's just great! I think we payed Q10.00 per persona,  its  a bit more if you are going into the thermal pools and  you might have to pay more if you want to camp. We asked how many people had visited today an according to the tickets sold about 800 people.  I probably shouldn't write this or the government will want to take control and ruin everything!

This is after the paying point

After that point we walked another 15 minutes up hill and there they were! The tallest falls in Guatemala and some claim the tallest in central america. The sign at the community says 201mts drop the official protected area website says 184 mts. Regardless of how tall the drop is they are amazing!

You can see the pool that forms at the bottom it is cold water. Next time we will bring swimsuits.

There are two fall but not really in IGUALDAD

This is a Panoramic photo and the subjects go behind you an pose again so that they get captured twice

The vegetation and the energy there is just amazing

Here we are taking in the energy from the earth. Recharging!

Coming back was also really nice, couple of people were still coming "in" so now we said you are late! Although most of them actually weren't since they were going to stay camping.

Yeah I made it back to the top!

Goat Milk

On easter on the street of San Rafael de la Cuesta, San Marcos, I stopped the goat milk seller to buy a cup of fresh milk. Comes out, of course, warm and foamy an it sells for Q5.00. 
Growing up every once in a while we would stop to get a glass of "leche al pie de la vaca" (milk at the foot of the cow would be the literal translation) so I wanted to share that memory with the girls... Nicole took a sip, Megan passed and Jorge also had only a sip since he is lactose intolerant although later we found out  that goat milk has less lactose than cow milk.

San Rafael Pie de la Cuesta

This last Easter week we went to San Rafael Pie de la Cuesta a town 57 km west of San Marcos, close to the border of Mexico and on the shadow of the Tajumulco Volcano. It is a town of the municipality by the same name.

The town of San Rafael from the village Feria

Although it is a small town it is definetly a happening place. We participated in the local religious activities, shopped all the second hand clothing stores, ate at the local market and also were able to enjoy a some of the ecoturism the area has to offer: La Igualdad Falls and Refugio del Quetzal (other posts on this will follow). We need to go back to climb the volcano, visit the Niagara Falls (yes another Niagara) and do a day trip to Tapachula the first town in Mexico. Kids felt free since at the town of San Rafael it's still safe for kids to play on the street, and go to the store by themselves.

Nicole, Josesito and Cooper strolling around San Rafael

My parents stayed at Hotel Victorias in San Rafael a very nice, comfortable hotel with a cold cold pool. 

The cold pool at Hotel Victorias, Josesito was the brave swimmer

We stayed at the village Feria, 10 minutes up hill from San Rafael at the house of a cousin built next to where Cooper's (my youngest son) grandma was borned and raised. You wake up there with a magnificent view of the Tajumulco volcano. Of course the biggest highlight was the time spent with family.

View of Volcano Tajumulco from the town of Feria

Lunch with family in the house at Feria

San Rafael and most of the villages around reeenact the  Passion  through all the week with romans, thieves, demons, the disciples and Jesus. Satan roams around town in the afternoon and evenings looking for Jesus to tempt him. The disciples walk around town. On Thursday the last supper is reenacted, at night Jesus is left in a prison built in a street and the next day is crucified. 

Satan looking for Jesus

Romans

Jesus and the disciples

At the same time on Friday all streets where the procession will pass are covered with sawdust rugs. We were able to but turns for Q10.00. I was worried if we needed a special attire like you do in the big procesions at Antigua and the city but they are quite practical, when your turn comes you just put on a purple cape.

As I am writing  I am wondering if the resurrection is also reenacted. I don't know since we headed back early Sunday morning.

If you come to Guatemala only for a week and for the first time, San Rafael is not one to make the list, but if you are here for a longer stay or repeated tourism I highly recommend it. 

Colitas de Ratón

I was introduced to this wonderful place by my colleague Carol.

We went to Huehuetenango for work and had to go the next day to Quiché so she suggested we stop by this place for breakfast. I am not sure if Colitas de Ratón (mice tails) is the name or nick name. There is a Facebook place as Colitas de Raton La Cuchilla Sololá.

I have to make a comment that I took the long route I could have taken a more direct route Huehue-Quiché that I totally forgot it existed, but looking at this post and thinking about the flavor and experience I say it was worth it. So this place I have gone by many times but it is so tucked in that you have to know about it. Coming from Guatemala to Xela you pass Los Encuentros  then  you pass the turn to Solola and 50 meter after on the left at the foot of the footbridge there it is!

There is an area for some 15 cars you think its closed but it isn't, open the door come in and sit down.

You will be asked if you want coffee, the answer is yes and so you will get already sweetened coffee and sweet bread. Next question is small or big (one skewer or two of meet). As you can see in the picture they are roasted right on the fire.

To complement you meal you will get beans and tortillas.

Judging for the publicity poster on the wall I guess for lunch instead of with coffee you can order it with "a fifth" actually in Guatemala is an 8th (un octavo... Un octavo de Indita).

TRANSMETRO STORIES

The Transmetro  is Guatemala's city least expensive (Q1.00 with ulimited transfers), cleanest and safest public transportation, proof of that is that I am writing this post riding on it not worried about getting my phone stolen.

The transmetro is an exclusive lane bus with a coin collector at the entrance of ech station to pay. If you want to write you need a one Quetzal coin or stand there pretending that you are trying to find one with a fustrating face saying I know I have, one until someone (I have been that someone) offers to give you one. 

I go work once or twice a week by transmetro which gave me the idea of writing a series about traveling by transmetro in Guatemala city. I will call it "Eje Central Stories" since that is the line I mostly ride. I take from beginning to end: Hangares to Tipografía.

INDIA QUICHE SODA

The India Quiché soda is a staple of Quiché. This company started back in 1926 and has since then been producing different flavor sodas one of them the particular "Crema Soda", cream soda.During the armed conflict when no commercials trucks came to the area of Quiché, this company was able to meet the demand. Now India Quiche is sold in the highlands region but also can be found in Guatemalan communities all over the United States. In the picture, Nicole in Sacualpa having a Crema Soda India Quiché.

TORTILLA DE HARINA

MEAT FLOUR TORTILLA (there is also chicken and other meats)  is a typical food in Puerto Barrios. A big flour tortilla first smothered with mayonnaise to then embrace meat, cabbage relish and beans. You can get the even bigger flour tortilla and get also half a baked potato and a couple of grilled green onions on it.

This one in the picture was the small one. We ate it at Antojitos Nineth la 13 in Puerto Barrios, Izabal.

It made our faces smile!!! 

Two days later we found the second store of Antojitos Nineth in Morales Izabal and repeated the procedure, except this time they also offered a chimichurri sauce.

Rattle Snake

Rattle Snake its whats for dinner here in Teculutan Zacapa. We stopped for grape juice and cold grapes and were surprised with rattle snake shishkebab!
According the patron it cures everything from cancer to warts.
This one is Q250.00.

Expressions: Al que madruga Dios lo ayuda.

God helps the early riser. This is the expression equivalent to the "early bird catches the worm".
This is the bird that came to wish us well as we head to Chisec-Raxurha-Fray-Chaal.
Picture in Carchá Cobán in a hotel that was a coffee plantation.

Papa is gonna buy you a Billy Goat

Walking with Nicole in pasos y pedales (The Avenida de las Americas on Sunday mornings becomes a pedestrian street) I took this picture of a boy who gives goat rides.
It immediatly reminded me of the lullaby I loved singing to her.

There are three pasos y pedales (steps and bike pedal), that I know of, in the city on Sundays (in zone 14, 11 and 2) and they are deffinetly and oasis in the city a beatiful opportunity to hang out with the kids.

Hush little baby, don't say a word,
Papa's gonna buy you a mockingbird.

And if that mockingbird won't sing,
Papa's gonna buy you a diamond ring.

And if that diamond ring turns to brass,
Papa's gonna buy you a looking glass.

And if that looking glass gets broke,
Papa's gonna buy you a billy goat.

And if that billy goat won't pull,
Papa's gonna buy you a cart and bull.

And if that cart and bull turn over,
Papa's gonna buy you a dog named Rover.

And if that dog named Rover won't bark,
Papa's gonna buy you a horse and cart.

And if that horse and cart fall down,
You'll still be the sweetest little baby in town!

Peanut drink

Fresco de Mania a surprisingly refreshing drink served in eastern Guatemala.
Peanut is one the characteristic crops of this arrid area. To make this drink peanut is grounded, then sugar, water and vanilla extract are added.
We had this drink at the fork that takes you to Asuncion Mita or Agua Blanca coming from Jutiapa.

Koyow

Coming out of a school in Cobán, that is how most stories seem to start lately, there was a man eating what looked like an avocado. Same exclamation followed by same question: Buenas, como esta! Ala que es es eso? (Hello, How are you! What is it?)

Answer: Koyow. My interpretation a poor man's avocado. Similar look (more primitive), similar consistency (less smooth), taste mmm (bla). He gave it to me, said have it and advice me to eat it with lime and chile de Cobán (kind of cayenne pepper).

Talpas - Fruit

Walking out of the public school we were training in Asuncion Mita, Jutiapa, there she was the Talpa vendor!
I had never seen this fruit that was presented to us as a Salvadorean fruit, sometimes refered as mamones.

No surprise, I started inquiring about it. It is sold peeled in a bag of about 6 talpas, seasoned with gorund pumkin seed, salt, powder chicken broth (I know) and lime. Q2.00 a bag (25 US cents)

Talking with our vendor she told us she opens the fruit with a knife because the public health office trains the vendors every year on sanitary measures and for her one is no to open them using her fingernails.

It has the consistency of an offspring of a grape that married a jocote!! Big seed in the middle and juicy but more meaty.

Expression "No me des Atol con el dedo"

The expression "No me des Atol con el dedo" literally would be don't give me atole with the finger. I am trying to think of an equivalent expression.. All I think is "Don't try to @$# me".

If your teenager son comes back with an unbelievable story you might say "Porfavor! No me des atol con el dedo."

This atol in the picture is breakfast in Fray Bartolome de las Casas, Alta Verapaz. It was mystery Atol until we asked what it was. She said it was plantain atol, milk based. I couldn't not tell the plantain, I think she was trying to give us Atol con el dedo!!!

El Chal, Dolores or Santa Ana?

El Chal is a town you by driving between Poptun and Flores. Half of it is El Chal, Dolores and the other half El Chal Santa, Ana so half of it is jurisdiction of the mayor of Santa Ana and half of the mayor Dolores. I learned, though, that in August they are hoping to make it is own municipio.

This is the "refresqueria" we stopped to eat pupusas and fruit drinks "liquados".

Rio Dulce, Izabal

After having been at 9000 feet above sea level in the mountains of Colorado, today I woke up to a crisp morning in Rio Dulce at a backpackers hotel by that name, right under the bridge of Rio Dulce, Izabal.

The restaurant is prime spot and the food is good, the facilities I give them a 5 on a hostel scale. I am still to find a good not expensive place to stay in Rio Dulce when having to stay for work.

His and Hers pila.

I have had previous posts of pilas, which for some reason I just love.

This pila is fabulous because it has two "lavaderos" across from each other, perfect for washing and talking at the same time.

I said his and hers but in reality it is more like a hers and hers.

A pila like this might encourage me to wash something. Almost everything is better when done in the company of others.

San Luis Jilotepeque

Church restored by brilliant architect who happens to be my best friend's sister in law.
San Luis Jilotepeque a town in Jalapa, in that land most of the black beans in Guatemala are produced. Also birth place of one of my favorite poets Ismael Cerna.